No Power To Your Boiler? These Checks Could Fix It

If you’ve got no power to your boiler (or even your timer and thermostat), I can help you.

heating engineer looking at boilerThere are a few reasons why you may have no power to your boiler. Some you can check and fix yourself. For the other’s, you’ll need a gas safe registered heating engineer to do them for you.

So let’s start with the checks you can do yourself.

Checks You Can Do If You Have No Power To Your Boiler

1. Check your fuse-board (also called a consumer unit)

Your fuse board is what controls the electricity to your property. One of the fuses may have tripped which would cause your boiler to lose power.

Lots of fuse boards look like this one in the picture. When the switch is pointing down, it means that circuit is off. When it’s pointing up, it means it’s on.

So if there’s no power to your boiler, one of those switches may be pointing down. If you flick it back up, it may restore power to you boiler and fix the problem.

If you don’t know where your fuse board is, you can look near the entrance of your property. They’re usually installed quite high up, like this one in the picture. If it’s not there, it’s usually in the cupboard under the stairs.

Open the flap and look for a fuse pointing down in the off position. Lots of modern fuseboards have each circuit labelled, like the one in the picture. You can see the “water heater” fuse that supplies the boiler is pointing down, which means it’s off.

If you flick it up to the top position, you will restore power to that circuit and may put power back to your boiler.

2. Check your boiler fuse isn’t blown

You can check this by finding the switch that turns your boiler on and off.

Most likely, it’ll be next to your boiler – or very near by. If it’s not there, look in your airing cupboard where your hot water tank is (if you have one). It should be in that cupboard somewhere.

Remove the fuse by levering out the fuse holder with an electrical screwdriver or similar non-conductive object (don’t use metal kids!), then taking the fuse out.

Your fuse should look like this and be rated 3 amp (3A). You can replace this fuse with a new one to see if that solves the problem of your boiler having no power.

Tried both of these checks and still no power to your boiler?

Here are more checks a good heating engineer can do:

3. Check the boiler’s internal fuse (or fuses).

Most boilers have at least one built in fuse. Others can have 3 or 4. If you have no power to your boiler and have tried the first 2 checks, the next thing to do is to check the boiler’s internal fuses.

As a homeowner, this check – and all the other checks except 1 & 2 – are not safe for you to do. So you will need to find a local Gas Safe Registered heating engineer to do them for you.

Boiler fuses look a bit like this and can sometimes blow for no reason, other than age. Once your heating engineer has changed the internal fuses, they will need to test your boiler to make sure it doesn’t blow any fuses again.

If it does, it means something faulty in your boiler or heating system is making the fuses blow.

4. Check the boiler’s circuit board

If all the fuses are ok, but there’s still no power to the boiler, it’s likely that the circuit board on your boiler (also called the PCB) is faulty. If this is the case, your heating engineer will need to replace it with a new one. Sadly, this isn’t usually a cheap job as circuit boards can cost between £80 and £250 depending on the boiler you have – plus your heating engineer’s labour.

Important note: Sometimes another faulty component in your boiler will cause the circuit board to break. The usual suspects are pumps, fans, and mechanical timers. When these fail, they can pass excess current around your boiler’s circuit board, overload it, and break it.

So make sure your heating engineer tests these components before fitting the new circuit board.

5. Does your boiler keep blowing new fuses?

If it does, there’s probably a faulty component on your heating system that’s short circuiting. The most common are either the pump, the boiler’s fan, or a mechanical timer clock. With some testing, a good heating engineer should be able to isolate the cause of the problem.

Would like me to help you with your boiler problem?

If you would, and I cover your area, please do get in touch. I don’t charge a call out fee, and will be happy to give you a fixed price quote to solve the problem.

The number to call is 01322 788 418 or email hello@thamesboilers.co.uk

Thanks for reading and I hope you can get your problem solved without too much trouble!

Vaillant Ecotec F28 Fault Code (Cause and Solution)

F28 Error Code On Vaillant Ecotec Combi Boiler

Vailant Ecotec F28 Fault Code

Today, I had what seemed like a pretty standard callout to a Vaillant Ecotec Plus 831 combi boiler in Greenhithe. It was showing an F28 fault code.

This code means that the boiler tried to light unsuccessfully 3 times in a row. It does this as a safety measure to stop a dangerous mixture of unburned gas building up in the boiler.

Common Causes Of Vaillant Ecotec F28 Faults

No Gas

Yes, one of the most common reasons for your Vaillant to show an F28 code is because there’s no gas to your property. Reasons for this include gas works on your road, someone accidentally turning off the gas at the meter, or credit on a prepay gas meter running out.

If you have another gas appliance (like a gas hob or gas fire) you can try to light them. If they don’t light, it means there’s no gas to your appliances. So the problem isn’t with the boiler, it’s with your gas supply.

Faulty Spark Electrodes

Spark electrodes are a bit like spark plugs in a car. They create a spark near the burner and light the gas when the boiler turns on. These can crack or lose continuity which will stop them from making a spark and lighting the gas. This will create an F28 fault.

Broken HT Lead

The lead that connects the spark electrode the boiler’s circuit board (also called PCB) can also break. Again, this will prevent the electrode from making a spark, which will stop the boiler lighting and cause an F28 code.

Gas Valve Fault

This is more of an issue on more recent Ecotec’s from about 2012 onwards. Their gas valves seem to fail more often than on the older models. I (or any other good heating engineer) can test to see if the gas valve is opening at the right time by doing a simple pressure check.

So what was caused the problem?

On this particular boiler, I changed the spark electrode because it was in such poor condition, but it wasn’t the cause of the F28 fault.

The cause was the spark generator on the circuit board (PCB) – see picture.

Vaillant Ecotec PCB

You can see the spark generator as the grey plastic square on the right hand side of the PCB.

This was only working occasionally, so most of the time the boiler wouldn’t light, but sometimes it would, which made it quite hard to diagnose.

You can replace just that part of the PCB, you need to replace the whole thing.

To help save the customer some money, I bought a reconditioned one from a boiler pcb reconditioning specialist, which saved them about 50% on the price of a new one – and it still comes with a 1 year warranty.

This solved the problem instantly (and saved the customer about £100 on the cost of a new PCB).

Would you like me to fix your F28 fault?

Vaillant Ecotec Plus 831 Combi BoilerIf you would like me to fix your Vaillant F28 fault and I cover your area, please do get in touch.

It won’t cost you anything for me to assess the problem. From there I can give you a fixed price quote to do the job, then all you have to do is say yes or no. Easy. So why not call today? The number is 01322 788418

Honeywell Smartfit Programmer Replacement

Can You Replace A Honeywell Smartfit Programmer?

Honeywell Smartfit ProgrammerHoneywell Smartfit was billed as the “next big thing” in the mid 2000s. It was a heating controls system where you plugged in all the components and they just worked, without extensive heating wiring skills.

Smartfit used data cable to connect everything up and used Honeywell’s proprietary language for all the components to communicate. The downside of this was that if any part of the Smartfit system failed, you’d need to replace it like-for-like, so you were locked-in to their system

A bit inconvenient you might think, but all well and good.

Yes, until Honeywell decided to discontinued their Smartfit range.

And that’s what I came across the other day.

My customer in Grays had a Honeywell Smartfit Programmer that stopped working, but I couldn’t get a replacement through the usual channels.

So what are your options?

Option 1: Take your chances on Ebay

This is what I did for my customer. We managed to source a direct replacement programmer that was brand new, but it was very expensive (£160).

This is only a temporary solution because the old stock that’s floating around will eventually be bought up and installed. You, however, might get lucky and find what you need for a decent price.

Option 2: Replace your whole heating control system

Heating programmer mounted on the wallSounds a bit drastic, doesn’t it? Unfortunately, it’s the only way to truly future-proof your system.

It’s not a small (or cheap) undertaking, but as prices of secondhand Smartfit components rise, it may be the better long term option.

Honeywell recommend the “Sundial RF2 Pack 3” as a Smartfit replacement kit. This kit consists of a 2 channel programmer (for heating and hot water), a wireless cylinder thermostat and a wireless room thermostat. The wireless thermostats make installation easier and cheaper because you don’t need to install new cables for them.

Bear in mind that you will also need to replace your motorised valves too. You will either have 2 x 2 port valves (called an S-Plan system) or 1 x 3-port valve (called a Y-Plan system). Your local heating engineer or myself can advise you on which system you have.

So to buy all the parts you need to replace your Smartfit system will cost between £290 and £390, plus the labour of a heating engineer to carry out the installation, which will be between £200 and £300.

This is quite a pricey option, but when individual Smartfit components are selling for £150+ each on Ebay, it may be cheaper in the long run.

More Help With Honeywell Smartfit Problems

If you would like more help with your Smartfit control problems, please call me on 01322 788418. I’ll answer any questions you have – and talk you through your options.

L2 Fault On Ideal Logic Combi Boiler

Ideal Logic Combi Boiler L2 Error Code

Today I had a callout to a boiler repair in Dartford. It was an Ideal Logic Combi boiler showing an L2 fault and it wouldn’t reset.

An L2 fault code means there is an ignition problem with the boiler.

There are several components that can cause an L2 fault including:

  • Flame sensor
  • Spark generator
  • Gas valve
  • Spark electrode

… to name the most common.

Get Your L2 Fault Repaired For A Fixed Price

Call today to get your L2 fault assessed for FREE and repaired for a very reasonable fixed price, which includes a 12 month warranty.

Call For Free Assessment

After carrying out some diagnostic work, I traced the problem to the spark generator. It wasn’t creating the spark needed to light the boiler, which was causing the L2 fault.

I replaced it and the boiler was back to working as normal.

How much does an L2 fault code cost to fix?

It depends on the company you deal with and their rates.

But as a rough idea, this spark generator should be about £35 at the time of writing.

Labour should be no more than an hour to install, plus any call out/diagnosis charge.

What does it look like?

Here’s a picture of the spark generator I replaced:

ideal logic spark generator

So if you have a similar fault, please get in touch and I’ll do my best to help you!